Breeding Amphilophus Trimaculatum
the "Three-Spot Cichlid

By Nyon Steede, BFAS

While at the 2000 ACA Convention, I purchased four three-spot “trimac” cichlids. I told the seller that I wanted two males and two females. I was told that these cichlids were easy to sex due to size and was given two 1_ inch “males” and two _ inch “females.” I enquired about some of the basic information that I felt was pertinent to keeping fish I have never kept before. Some of the information that was offered was that these fish will reach 12 inches, will spawn at about 3 to 4 inches and will eat anything.

When I returned home, I put what I was told was a male and a female into a 20 long, the other male into a 10 gallon to raise as a possible show fish and the other female into my fathers 75 gallon due to lack of tank space. After months of 50% water changes and feeding a varied diet (Can O’ Worms, Can O’ Crickets, Cichlid pallets and flake) they reached the required spawning size. I put some slate into the tank to give the fish a surface to spawn on. One day I returned home to find about 200 to 300 eggs on the slate. Anyone that has spawned a new fish can imagine how excited I was as I eagerly anticipated the eggs to hatch. When the eggs turned white and fungus appeared, I realized that I committed the breeders cardinal sin of counting my fry before they hatched.

After the same thing happened a second time I consulted one of a fish hobbyist best resource, the Baenschs’ Aquarium Atlas’s. I found what I was looking for in the second edition (pg.882). I discovered that the “trimac” was easy to sex at a young age like the seller said, but the method he used was not a all accurate. The way to differentiate between the sexes is to look at the dorsal fin. On the front dorsal of the female the first few rays are black which does not appear on the male. I immediately went to my 20-gallon tank to look at the dorsal of the two fish and discovered that I had two females. I checked the fish that I had in the 10 gallon and it had the black rays on the front of the dorsal, another female. I had only one chance for a male, the “trimac” that I put in my fathers 75. The next day I went to assess the sexual identity of the last unsexed fish and to my relief it was a male. So I exchanged one of the females for the male.

I finally had a male and female together in the 20 long and was ready for the breeding to begin. It indicated in the Aquarium Atlas that these fish are one of the most aggressive cichlids toward each other. As a result, if you wish to obtain a breeding pair it is best to get a young group (1 inch) of about six to eight and let them pair off themselves. Well, I was already at a disadvantage due to the size of my fish (4 _ inches) that I was trying to get breed. They had not formed the pair bond and were being forced to pair up. I guess it was like the old arranged marriages; they were unfamiliar with each other and not compatible. Of course being the male he was he wanted to spawn anyway and the female was not interested. Needless to say it resulted in a case of domestic violence, with the male beating the crap out of the female. I put a divider in the tank with an inch gap from the bottom in the hope that they would spawn under the divider and to let the female heal from the brutal attack.

After the female healed from the physical and emotional scars, she laid some eggs. In the true nature of a female she laid them at the farthest spot from the divider (this could possibly be viewed as pay back to torture the male) and the eggs were never fertilized.

I spoke to a guess speaker that visited the club (Judy Daniel) that breeds Discus to get some advise to resolve my breeding problems. She suggested that I put them in a bigger tank and to let the male choose the female that he wants to spawn with. I went back to my fathers’ house and got the female that I had exchanged the male with. The next day I went about setting up my 45 to house the male and two females. I outfitted the 45 with fine gravel and a variety of breeding material (slate, decorative wood, PVC and flower pots) that provided numerous hiding places for the females. After a few weeks it was apparent which female the male chose, as the other female was being bashed and was hiding a lot. I took the beaten female and put in my fathers 75. The other female was swimming around and holding her own. Finally I had a suitably pair.

I left for the 2001 ACA a day later hoping that the pair would be fine until I return. I returned on a Monday (with fish) to find the pair in good shape. On the Wednesday after our fish club meeting I returned home to witness the female in full spawning dress of thick, black vertical bars, dark fins, and sporting a dark red throat section in the middle of laying eggs and saw the male fertilizing them. The male retained his normal color. Approximately 300 eggs were laid (considered to be moderate to the 1000 eggs they can lay) on the slate that is attached to the bottom of the decorative wood. After the female finished laying the eggs, the male became even more aggressive due to his protective instinct. “Both parents intensively care for and guide the young,” according to Aquarium Atlas (2), Günther, 1866. I think that because there were no other fish in the tank for the male to fend off, he turned his aggression on the female.

I brought a target fish (a tinfoil barb) to redirect the male’s aggression from the female. This did not work, as the male protected the fry from the target fish and the female. Since the male was so aggressive in his protection, the female was unable to eat and had to be removed. Upon removal of the female, the male took on the spawning dress of the female. After three days the eggs hatched and the fry was free swimming in another four. I removed the target fish not wanting to loose any fry. The male did an excellent job in rearing the fry, which were feed newly hatched brine shrimp three times a day.

Nothing special was done in regard to water conditions. The water was straight from the tap with no additives and the water temperature was in the low 80’s. I am to the point that I do not even use carbon. I found that it is not necessary if you do regular weekly water changes. The water chemistry to breed these fish is secondary to water quality and varied food. I have found the trimaculatus to be a very hardy fish and are easy to spawn when you give them the right situations and acquire fish of the correct sex.

I had between 150 and 200 fry and the male did an excellent job as a single parent. At night I left the tank light on so that the male can see the fry. I was worried that if the male could not see the fry that he would eat them by mistake. I darkened the tank by placing foil paper under the light fixture. If you have a nightlight, you can place it next to the tank instead of leaving the tank light on. I took the male out after the fourth day of free swimming just to be on the safe side. With your first spawn, you do not want to leave anything to chance.

Spawning a new fish is just as exciting as the first fish I ever spawned. If you are trying to spawn a particular fish and are having no luck, persistence and trying different things (sometimes that may be contrary to what the books say) might be answer. Dr. Wayne S. Leibel said in his 2001 ACA lecture on Breeding “Impossible” South American Cichlids, “When everything that you have tried (according to the books) fails, don’t be afraid to experiment. Experiment with different water temperature, chemistry and even water levels. Some people use a bare tank to breed in due to easy cleaning, but sometimes you need to have some junk (PVC, pots, driftwood and gravel) in the tank.